Shalini sounds like a perfect white bouquet, and while big white florals dont always work for me, those that do become true friends of mine. Symrises master perfumer, genuine artist perfumer, sensual aesthete of the exclusive raw materials. Symrise perfumer maurice roucel presents his work at the museum. He is the author of hermes 24, faubourg, frederic malle musc ravageur and serge lutens iris silver mist, among many others. Musc ravageur, by maurice roucel for frederic malle blogger. Roucel began his career in perfumery on february 19, 1973 while working as the head chromatography chemist at chanel for 6 years. Maurice roucel was the winner of the prix francois coty in 2002.
Although his legendary olfactory style is now characterized for the most part by opulent sensuality sprung from his preference for musk, white flowers and amber the precise methodology of his original profession has remained. Thats a shame because an existing fragrance opportunity that intersects with music and technology is right under their noseand the fragrance industrys. Maurice roucel creates latest ferrari scent, scuderia ferrari forte. These people were usually given a temporary job in the perfume industry.
Flechier, olivia giacobetti, dominique ropion, maurice roucel, edmond roudnitska. Jul 01, 2016 i was like that listener when i declared maurice roucel to be my favourite perfumer two years ago, partly because he was one of the very few highprofile perfumers whose name i could remember due to crncntws, cant remember nonchinese names too well syndrome, and also he was the nose of one of my favourite perfumes, le labos jasmin 17. Truth be told, the atmosphere, in lartisan parfumeur s parisian flagship store just behind the louvre was conducive to impulse buying. While many industry perfumers complete significant chemistry training as part of their studies, maurice roucel was hired entirely for his technical expertise, spending years with chanel in the 70s as the head chromatography chemist before a deep interest in the artistic side of the business led him to begin training as a perfumer with chanels inhouse perfumer. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.
Explore free books, like the victory garden, and more browse now. Frederic malle and his perfume designers want the same things. Not only did gallimard publish the best authors in its time, but its books also look like. A sensual perfume, powerful yet perfectly controlled, dramatic and mysterious. On perfume making malle, frederic, kakanias, konstantin, malle. Although his legendary olfactory style is now characterized for the most part by opulent sensuality sprung from his preference for musk, white flowers and amber the precise methodology of his original profession has. Lolita lempicka marc jacobs montale moschino mugler narciso rodriguez. Maurice roucel is one of my favourite perfumers, as well. The fragrance industry has recognized him with numerous accolades and awards and since 2011, maurice roucel is chevalier des arts et des lettres. Dans tes bras in your arms, whose name hints at intimate embraces, straddles the line between an invitation to caress and. Nov 05, 2014 are we ready for another turn with maurice roucel after what happened with muscs ravageur. This perfume is rare, but beautiful, and we love to support really beautiful perfumes. Edward morgan forster 18791970 wrote maurice as a relatively young man, aged 34, at a time when old europe was starting to fall apart. Shalini perfume is part of our sample program, however, due to the limitation and high concentration of the perfume, the sample vial contains only one drop for a single application.
Most past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as a perfume technician in charge of blending formulas or chemist. Having created masterpieces for guerlain, hermes and gucci, maurice roucel s fragrances rank among our favorites. The book was the brainchild of clara molloy, who founded the niche perfume brand memo the same year that the book came out. Todays perfumes are redolent of caramel, fresh ginger, grapefruit, pink peppercorn, even justbaked bread. Francis kurkdjian interview les belles rencontres du printemps printemps paris 2015 duration. Frederic malle perfume comprehensive guide perfume posse best perfumes comprehensive guide by perfume note. Maurice rouvier, french statesman who had some success in balancing the budget during periods of his seven terms as minister of finance and two terms as premier. A book on the exhibition created jointly with the musee. Jun 04, 2015 maurice roucel takes musc ravageur out of the bedroom and into the nursery, refashioning it as helmut lang edp. He became a perfumer in 1978, and has since worked for iff, dragoco and quest. Brian eno and perfumer maurice roucel collaborated on a fragrance project in the late eighties that never came to fruition.
Interview with perfumer maurice roucel fragrant reading. Perfumier frederic malle was born into the world of fragrances. I kept a perfume article from grazia france magazine that i read a while back and here is a summary of its contents. Roucel began in 1973 while working at chanel as an apprentice and then went on to work at iff, quest, and dragoco. Maurice roucel musc ravageur as it is officially called followed one year later and the rest is history. Maurice roucel is a perfumer whose work i admire for its originality, boldness and unapologetic sensuality, which are clear even in his big brand creations. Shalini kumar wanted the perfume to evoke her childhood memories of tuberose and butterflies in her garden. Join facebook to connect with maurice roucel and others you may know. Interview with perfumer maurice roucel fragrant reading highly recommended read. It was written in 191914, and revised in 1932 and 19591960. Jan 20, 2014 the format of the 2007 book 22 perfumers. Having launched the republican journal legalite in 1870, rouvier, a supporter of leon gambettaone of the founding fathers of the third. Finding the perfect gift can be an interesting and wonderful experience. Maurice is probably the first literary work of fiction to deal with male homosexuality in such an open, sincere fashion.
After my post about linden perfumes i ordered zeta by andy tauer, and of course had to get three other tauer samples so i. One of perfumerys brightest stars is undoubtedly the legendary maurice roucel, presently of symrise. Fields of blue lavande, thyme, orange blossoms, sunflowers following the golden sun, ancient olive trees, the sky that turns pink as it touches the azure of the mediterranean and amorous nights drenched in jasmine. Facebook gives people the power to share and makes the world more open and connected. I must admit it was practically love at first sniff, and one of the very rare occasions in which i didnt apply the three trial rule. And when i say coffee table book i mean it, it covers half of my coffee table. Roucel created jardin nocturne as an ode to a fragrant evening in a garden.
Like shalini parfum, jardin nocturne is a potent white floral with the most decadent opening of jasmine and saffron. Paradis provence by shalini at indigo perfumery paradis provence is the essence of the land we call provence, paradise on earth. At the time, when i started out in 1973, there were only people from grasse in the perfume industry. I admire that he never repeats himself, is always in search for a new way to paint a fragrant painting. Maurice roucel joined chanels laboratory as a chemist in 1973, and since then has been a selftaught perfumer. Aug 16, 2011 maurice roucel is a perfumer whose work i admire for its originality, boldness and unapologetic sensuality, which are clear even in his big brand creations. Maurice roucel is a contemporary perfumer who has worked at companies iff, quest, dragoco and presently symrise.
Roucel started his training under henry robert, who at the time shaped chanels fragrance world as its perfumer. After discovering maurice roucel s perfumes such as tocade, 24 faubourg, linstant, insolence, musc ravageur and many more you can also discover his sense of humor, earthiness, and intelligence in this interview given to symrise, monsieur roucel, perfumes classically consist of smells from meadows and forests, fruits and flowers, water and wood. My three premier figuier, passage denfer and vanilia all last on me as well as the best of them. Maurice roucel is a contemporary perfumer who has worked at companies iff, quest. Interview maurice roucel le chromatographe youtube. Musc ravageur, by maurice roucel for frederic malle a. Grazia had six french perfume creators or noses as theyre called in the industry each compile a list of their top 10 perfumes, excluding their own creations. Paradis provence shalini kumar, the creator of s h a l i n i, jardin nocturne, amorem rose and the new paradis provence, was born in bombay, india and raised in london. Maurice roucel with notes of lavender, bergamot, cinnamon, cloves, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, guaiac wood and cedar. Its an amazing accomplishment when you think about it it shares the same basic dna as musc ravageur, and even smells somewhat similar and yet the feel of one is a hundred million miles away from the other.
Composed by maurice roucel as an act of seduction and generosity, musc ravageur is an uncompromising oriental, which trumps current fads. I stand at the end of the long, elegant, crystalandsilverlaid dinner table at the carlyle hotel on madison avenue in manhattan. Indigo perfumery presents the fourth beautiful s h a l i n i pure parfum. Its explosive departure of bergamot, tangerine and cinnamon is set against a backdrop of vanilla, musk and amber.
Shalini parfum was created by perfumer maurice roucel. His work is a unique combination of creativity, passion and expertise. Brian eno, maurice roucel and the perfume of unfinished. Fumerie parfumerie is a portlandbased perfume retailer specializing in niche and independent fragrances for men and women. A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a nose french. Upon the completion of his studies with robert, roucel joined quest international, where he worked for twelve years. What perfumes would you pair with characters in books moviesshows. Maurice roucel began his career in the perfume industry at chanel in 1973 as. Still luminous, its as though the fragrances white petals are glowing under moonlight. Our ancestors came from outer space hardcover 1978. Master perfumer at symrise, maurice roucel is considered as one of the best perfumers of his time. The native french won the prix francois coty and the oscar of perfume, among others. Yes, these perfumes are not cheap, and i do not know whether they are distributed in russia or in. He worked at chanel for six years as the lead chromatography chemist.
A tale of homosexual love in early 20thcentury england, it follows maurice hall from his schooldays through university and beyond. Symrise perfumer maurice roucel presents his work at the. Every year you have 300400 new perfume challenges, said roucel. Sounds like the perfume of unfinished business, but decades later, no one is talking about it. Shalini shalini was created for the designer shalini kumar by maurice roucel, the perfumer who brought us such scents as musc ravageur, iris silver mist, 24 faubourg and tocade.
During this time he began an apprenticeship under henri robert, the then inhouse parfumeur at chanel. Feb 22, 2011 ive read several times that lartisan parfumeur perfumes dont last and this hasnt been my experience with them. Made by maurice roucel in 1995, this is a unique throwback to those elegant, supremely french perfumes of yore when ladies who lunched wore couture, carried hermes bags, and wore fragrant statements that left an emphatic presence in the room behind them. When i scented it i started wondering why i had been looking for. A lepoque, nombreux etaient encore les parfumeurs a ne pas etre issus duniversites specialisees mais a apprendre leur metier sur le terrain, au contact dautres parfumeurs aguerris. Maurice roucel started as a chemist at chanel in 1973. Because youd be forgetting that maurice roucel, with his bon vivant moustaches and his big comforting paws fantasizing here, is also the author of one of the most austere, haughty, melancholy scents on the market, serge lutens iris silver mist. Dans tes bras in your arms was created by maurice roucel in 2008, it is the second one by this perfumer for editions continue reading. However, it was not published until 1971, a year after his death.
Maurice roucel began his career in the perfume industry at chanel in 1973 as the head chromatography chemist. Before joining symrise, roucel worked for several renowned fragrance companies. Ive been wearing musc ravageur for almost 10 years. Dans tes bras by maurice roucel, the new frederic malle ive only sniffed this on a scent strip no skin tests allowed. It is especially illuminating on the kind of balance a great and successful creative perfumer attempts to strike between needed commercialism and his reflection on art. The following is an excerpt from a fantastic book by clara molloy called 22 perfumers. The design, reminiscent of a butterfly wing, echoes the preciousness of the fragrance.
Roucel smoothed every facet like a french ariadne spinning gauzy silk, surrounded by the dewy radiance or neroli and and lily of the valley and a pinch of spicy coriander hinting in the first while to the lavish greenery of gardenia. The following is an excerpt from a fantastic book by. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with. Olfactive studios next release was recently unveiled at milans esxence exhibition. Frederic malle perfume comprehensive guide perfume posse. At the opening, shalini parfum by maurice roucel unveils tuberose as the centerpiece of the fragrance and m. Not only does apres londee not give the impression that it was created more then a century ago. Dans tes bras has arranged a usual array of popular perfume notes into one of. He started his career at chanel, where he spent 6 years and discovered the mysteries of hauteparfumerie. Maurice roucel made guerlain insolence edt as a modern version of apres londee. Gucci envy by maurice roucel for gucci 1997 australian. Composed by maurice roucel as an act of seduction and generosity, musc ravageur is an uncompromising oriental, which runs against current fads. An old friend i dont know about you, but sometimes my senses get worn out from trying new things.
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